Brith Cardigan Knitting Pattern

$10.00
1 review
Description

Wave lapping calmly on the beach
Pebbles worn smooth along the coast
The beauty of windswept sand dunes

These are some of the images that inspired this cozy cardigan design. When planning for this pattern began, I knew I wanted to use brioche for a couple of reasons. First, the plump texture traps warmth close to the body for a fabric that will keep you warm all day long. Second, I love the way brioche fabric can be textural and graphic at the same time. The wave motif worked sideways along the hem and echoed down each sleeve was a fun challenge to design, and I wanted a graphic element that captured the beauty of a windswept coastline. This is a sweater that is fun to knit and will keep you warm and cozy all winter long.

Construction
The Brith cardigan is an open-front raglan brioche cardigan worked seamlessly from the top down. After casting-on around the back of the neck, raglan increases are worked simultaneously with v-neck increases to shape the yoke and v-neck opening of the sweater. The body includes optional A-line shaping and a wave hem that is worked sideways starting from the center back around to the front on either side. The sleeves are worked without sleeve decreases for a slightly gathered look around the cuff and finished with a tubular bind-off. Once the body is complete, stitches are picked up along the front and neck opening to knit a generous shawl collar, which is finished with an i-cord bind-off. Finally, the hem is also finished with an applied i-cord.

Sizes 
1, 2, 3 (4, 5, 6) 7, 8, 9

Finished Measurements 
Bust Circumference - 38, 42, 46 (50, 54, 58) 62, 66, 70 in (95, 103, 115 (125, 135, 145) 155, 165, 175 cm)
Yoke depth - 8, 8.5, 9 (9.5, 10, 10.5) 11, 11.5, 12 in (20, 21, 22.5 (24, 25, 27) 27, 29, 30 cm)
Upper Arm - 12.5, 14, 16 (16, 17.5, 19) 21, 23, 24 in (31, 34, 40 (41, 44, 47) 53, 56, 59 cm)

Recommended Ease

5-7in (12-18cm) positive ease at bust

Gauge 
16 sts x 34 rows = 4in (10cm) in brioche rib, worked flat

Yarn Requirements 
Sample used 

Red Stag Fibre - Estate DK
100% SW Merino (231yds/211m - 100g) Color A (light color) - Aberdeenshire - 4 skeins
Color B (dark color) - Dun Eideann - 3 skeins

To substitute, use
DK or light worsted weight yarn
Color A - 914, 1024, 1165 (1237, 1390, 1514) 1652, 1865, 1968 yds
Color B - 683, 793, 1396 (1006, 1160, 1282) 1421, 1634, 1737 yds

(Note: I try to always make my yardage suggestions generous, but you may need more than the suggested yardage if you choose certain modifications like extra length in the body and/or sleeves.)

Needles

US 5 (3.75mm) 16” and 36” circular needles
US 5 (3.75mm) DPNs

or 
size needed to obtain gauge

Notions

12 stitch markers
tapestry needle
blocking supplies

For questions or pattern support, email refractedlightknits@gmail.com

Disclaimer: in an attempt to be size inclusive, I have graded the pattern for people with a bust measurement up to 64in/162cm (potentially larger if worn with less than the suggested positive ease). However, I could not find people to test some of the larger sizes, so sizes 7-9 have not been test knit. If you are interested in testing one of these sizes for me, feel free to get in touch, and I would be happy to discuss testing details with you, including a free copy of the pattern.

Copyright December 2022, all rights reserved.

RLFA

Dyed with Nature's Gifts.

Dyed by Hand

Always and only with natural dyes

Recipes honed through research and experimentation.

Beauty. Creativity. Renewal.
Beauty. Creativity. Renewal.
Beauty. Creativity. Renewal.

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

What you've always wanted to know about my yarn.

How long does it take to dye a batch of yarn?

Generally speaking, it takes about a week to go from undyed skein to finished skein, though it varies depending on the colorway. The process to dye yarn naturally has several more steps than the process to dye yarn with synthetic or acid dyes. These steps usually include scouring, mordanting, dyeing, and rinsing but can also include multiple dye baths or afterbaths.

Will it fade?

It depends. Part of the beauty of natural dyes is that they change and age over time, developing the patina that gives natural materials that lived-in feeling. Some colors fade, others shift, while still others deepen. Every natural dye behaves a little differently, and some have a greater tendency to fade than others. 

Most of my colorways are dyed on yarn that has been mordanted. There are many different ways to mordant fiber in preparation for dyeing, but to speak generally, mordanting is a process whereby the fiber is prepared for dyeing by being treated with something that will help the dye bond to the fiber. This process improves lightfastness and colorfastness, but it does not mean that fading will not happen at all. Even industrial synthetic dyes can fade if exposed to harsh direct sunlight for long enough. If you are concerned about fading, then I recommend keeping your yarn out of direct sunlight.

Are your colorways repeatable?

Yes and no. I do have a library of repeat colorways that I have developed. These colorways are as close to repeatable as I can get them, which is to say that there may be very subtle variations between batches, as is true of all hand-dyed yarn. If you are concerned about color pooling, then I recommend alternating skeins in multi-skein projects.

That said, experimentation and colorplay are two of the reasons I got into natural dyeing in the first place, so I will often offer colorways that are one-offs, accidents, or otherwise unrepeatable. Anything labeled OOAK is something I do not anticipate being able to recreate, so when it's gone, it's gone.

Will it bleed?

This has been an area of ongoing improvement for me as a dyer, and I am constantly refining recipes and processes to eliminate as much bleeding as possible.

It is rare for my yarns to bleed, and I have never heard of or experienced bleeding ruining a project, but I cannot guarantee that no bleeding will happen. When washing, factors such as the temperature and pH of the water, the type of soap or detergent used, and any chemicals that may be present in the water can all impact a yarn’s tendency to bleed.

Given all these factors, even commercially-dyed yarns sometimes bleed. For this reason, I recommend that you hand-wash projects made with my yarn in cold water with a gentle pH neutral soap and use a color catcher sheet if you are concerned about bleeding.

What is crocking?

Crocking is a process whereby small particles of pigment are transferred from the dyed fiber to other surfaces due to friction and sometimes heat. If you’ve ever had a pair of jeans that bled onto other clothing, then you’ve experienced crocking. Crocking is most common with indigo-dyed fabric, but it can happen with other dyes as well. 

I like to think of crocking as getting cozy with the natural dyes that give us color.

In my experience, crocking is a normal, though not inevitable, aspect of working with naturally-dyed yarns. It can also very from person-to-person, as differences in skin pH can affect color transfer while working with the yarns. Color transfer from crocking typically washes away easily.

Where do you get your dyes?

Most of my dyes are currently sourced from Shepherd Textiles, a weaving and fiber arts studio based in Washington state. All dyes are 100% natural and free from any synthetic colorants or industrial chemicals. Many of the dyes I use are GOTS certified organic.

Occasionally, I will dye special one-of-a-kind colorways using natural dye materials I have foraged, grown, or collected myself. In time, I hope to have my own dye garden and produce more of my own dyes.